BAHHHHHHHHH...by NR

I have always been under the impression that if your mind says that you can do it, your body will follow. Well, I have learned that this is not the case, as I write this blog from the prideful part of me that says the above HAS to be true. Today, I am stuck, I mean, resting in Astorga, Spain. I will spend the next two days here healing and then catch up with Em in Vallefranca. Yesterday, we had the best time listening to nature´s music: the wheat fields whistling, the trees soft song and the sound of accomplishment as we heard our footsteps moving onward. The last couple of km´s left me talking aloud, coaching my feet to keep moving. Em agreed that our feet were howling and we looked anxiously towards the town in front of us. We hitchhiked the last km, as the heat was unbearable. As the nice (and safe) man dropped us off at the hostel, I could feel my legs shutting down. As we sat down infront of the hostel´s host, he immediately read my emotion. He then showed us his leg, which was ravaged and disfigured from 27 walks through the Camino. Reading the dismay upon my face and the well of tears I held back, he said, ¨My friend, the Camino is not just this road, it is whatever journey your soul takes. The piece of paper when you reach the end just says what you did, but not how the journey played out. I can tell your strong but you need to let your body do the talking for today. Tomorrow, you stay here with me¨. Em and I had a discussion about what to do next and decided together that she would walk on and take good pictures. So, our journey has again led us in two diverged roads, both leading us to life-long lessons that are surely valuable. I woke up today and hugged Em goodbye and a peace came over me about what I was learning at this moment. That is, that sometimes this ol mind needs to learn the value in rest, peace and a lack of control. It is a lesson I thought I learned a couple of weeks ago, but I guess I have further to go. And I am okay with this journey and I look forward to greeting Em with stories of growth and visa versa. God provided Em with Alexa, a Californian to walk with today and Anna from Texas will stay with me until I head out again. We have certainly added angels to this list, thanks be to God.

Keep on keepin´ on...by NR

We have just finished a long day of walking in the hot sun, but we gave each other ¨high-fives¨ because we weren´t ready to die at the end. My ankle continues to swell but it is improving and Em´s sniffles are going away too. We were quiet today and only laughed when we reached the hostel for the day. I think Em would agree that we are trying to stay focussed for the days ahead and recount what we left behind on the trail. Singing has been at times our only communication, and then there is quiet, deep thought. Then we share what we were thinking and realize, mant times, that we were thinking the same thing. We think of home and funny falls we´ve had in public places, or funny things our parents have done or said. We remind each other how we´ve grown or improved, even since the beginning of the trip. I am learning Spanish, so we practice the street signs as we pass. Today, I was not as slick because I read the ground as we were passing through a town, which said to me ¨zoom¨. Because people are so encouraging to the pilgrims as we pass through their communities, I began to comment on how nice this town might be, that they would even encourage us to zoom forward. Em, being the fluent senora she is, explained that it actually said 200 m (meters). So we are thankful we are here together--growing, laughing and becoming more like our parents everyday! Additionally, we look forward to hot showers with no shoes, to smell nice and to not hear women snore like old men...looking forward to hearing from you all.

And I will walk 500 miles...by NR

We have arrived to Burgos, Spain, a big city with lots to see. Emily and I were ready to hit this halfway point, as both a sign of our success and the end is in sight! This has been an incredible experience. Waking up and hiking everyday may seem monotonous to some, but I can assure you that we never see the same thing twice. The cathedrals have made us speechless. My love for church history and Em´s passions for art history make for great discussion as we walk through the historical wonders. We are soaking up the culture and learning every moment. Lately, I have been fascinated with the way we are looked at when we first enter a city (by some). It is humbling because you look and feel like a nomad or vagrant that has just entered this new city to take in all it has to offer. Yes, we smell, but our blisters and limp bind us to a community of pilgrims that always make the city our own. Most of the people, especially the hosts of our hostels are so patient when we are aching to get to a bed. All in all, the experience has been overwhelmingly magical in the way that the road becomes alive. It knows how you feel and responds appropriately by giving you a peak when your knees are tired of the steep descend, or sending a cool breeze when your face is hot to the touch...so 12 days is all that is left. We are eager to lay on the beaches of Portugal, and start the next part of our lives with new knowledge and fresh perspective from the Road. We love you all and think of you everyday.

Angels on the Camino...by ER

It´s true, we do encounter angels every day. They don´t have wings or wear halos of gold, but they do point us in the right direction, give us shelter, prepare our meals and give words of encouragement. Many of these angels are ¨hospitaleros¨ or volunteer workers of the hostels/monestaries in which we have been sleeping. Many of them have done El Camino before and return to the monestary in support of other pilgrims. I am considering signing up to do this while I´m in Europe. It´s so nice to see a smiling face when you arrive in a city and to hear the kind words of someone asking how you are doing while stamping your ¨camino passport.¨ Most of the hostels are free in La Rioja, but others are only 5 - 7 euros or donation only. We found a real oasis today in a small town, Viloria de la Rioja (population 30). An Italian couple have welcomed pilgrims in this hostel for the past 15 years, leaving an impression to all who have been here. The old farmhouse is made of stones and timber and they make a family - style meal for all the pilgrims spending the night. We are about to sit down for dinner right now...I´m sure it will be an interesting conversation amongst all the Italian, Swedish, German, Spanish and English pilgrims staying here.

We officially have a reputation...by NR

Hi all! We have made it to some town three days from Burgos (Em keeps up with that, not me). We are at a nice hostel with our new British friend and our feet are still attached. Em and I feel like our bodies are finally adjusting to the strenuous walks each day. Our feet scream back alittle less and we become stronger with every stride. Today, I was so deep in thoughts of gratitude for the day and what was in front (and behind) me... Emily and I were at mass yesterday, but decided to leave before something awkward happened...then Em dropped her water on the stone floor. We needed to make a big exit! It seems that we always find things funny when we are in the church, as both of us capture the most inopportune (but hilarious) time to do something clumsy. Speaking of making an impression, we now have a reputation. No, we are thankfully not the loud Americans, but we are the ¨American girls that wake up really early!¨ Now, if you know us at all, you will be shocked at this rumor, however, we are usually the first up to beat the heat of the day. We accepted this reputation, started by our German friends, because we knew that it could of been worse. So yes, we are known on the road alreay! We only have 15 days left of walking, which is bittersweet. Thanks for reading, we love you! I better go check on E because this Spanish guy just gave her some ¨strong medicine¨ for her cough! lol.

Dr. Bronner Lies

I write this blog as a warning to those who might be tempted to buy Dr. Bronner´s ¨magic soap.¨ It claims to clean all - face, body, hair, dishes, clothes and even cars, leaving a refreshing scent of lavender. Don´t be a sucker like me. After 7 days of using only Bronner´s my hair squeaks, my clothes smell like I rolled down one of the mountains we climbed and I am repulsed by the smell. Luckily, Nikki and I both use the same elixir, so we can´t tell whose stinch is worse.

Just a quick note...by NR

Few people have seen me at my ¨finest¨, struggling to even survive another step...but Em handled my physical struggle with such love and care today (as always). We made it to the beautiful city of Losgronos today. We had tapas and my new favorite drink, coca-cola lite (Dr Pepper, I am still loyal to you, but the Spainiards are not). Then, we called our families and received some much-needed affection. As I was trying to explain in an email to my dad, this is by far the most difficult yet rewarding thing I have ever done. Putting my head on the bed each nights fills my mind instantly with beautiful scenery, peaks and prayers from the day´s path. We have also seen some beautiful churches. We always seem to get giggly in the church at some lack of etiquette either one of us has at the moment. But after we straighten up, we sit in awe at the sight before us and the history the air holds in such a sacred place. We love you all...I am going to go ice my (gross) feet!

Slow and Steady wins the race...by NR

Yesterday´s walk was our most trying yet. Hot, no shade and no destination in sight left the approx. 20 miles we walked to challenging moments! Just imagine, I am limping trying to get to the next morsel of shade and Em asked me a question. I told her as nicely as I could that I didn´t have anything good/nice to say, so I would just be quiet. Then, Em proceeds to sing ¨Smile! ´Cause you know God loves you!¨ I can look back now and be amused but at the time, it took all I had not to hit her with my hiking pole! HA...But really, it is amazing how our lows and highs never hit at the same time. When I am down, she picks me up, no matter how annoying the song or dance. I think she would say the same, that we have worked well together as a team. We have met people along the way that have come with friends and ended up walking alone...that´s not us at all. Today, we ended early as our bodies in many ways have told us to stop. Even our stubborn ways were no match for walking another 20 miles. We keep passing the same friends, which is so nice. It is nap time now, but I am home sick for some hugs so thanks for keeping up with us. XOXO

The silent partner speaks...by ER

First of all, thank you VERY much for your encouraging posts, prayers and positive thoughts. Nikki has done such a great job at blogging, while I have served as the official photo journalist of the trip (I promise to put some pics up soon) haha! Yesterday we saw the legendary festival of San Fermin, patron saint of Pamplona, otherwise know as ¨The Running of the Bulls.¨ It was just as chaotic and rowdy as I expected. We woke up at 5 am, or normal waking time, to be in the city by 7. I think everyone in the city was still buzzed from the night before, except us of course. When we entered the main plaza, we were pushed around the sea of red and white bull runners, trying to hold on to our bulging backpacks...we looked ridiculous. We found the perfect spot to watch the bulls run out of the gates and see the city choir sing their chants before the run. It was incredible. Imagine a city of 20,000 people being occupied by 2.3 million for one weekend...es una locura!! Luckily, we survived the event unwounded and went on our pilgrim path for the rest of the day. I want to share with you a bit of my overall experience en El Camino: I never could have imagined the diversity beautiful sights we´ve seen thus far. Every day is a different landscape, new people and a fresh state of mind. I never thought I would be able to walk for 8 hours a day in the rain or sun and have that be my only goal, besides finding a bed at the pilgrim hostel before they fill up. The first few days, it was so dangerous, foggy, rocky, slippery and grueling. We´ve gone through the thick forest, alongside the highway and my most favorite so far, the wheat feilds of Navarra province. I wouldn´t change a bit of it, even the cold an rainy portions. At night all the pilgrims get together, share war stories, nurse our wounds and get to know eachother. We´ve been hanging out with Spanish and German people mostly. The other night we stayed in a tiny monestary run by a 70-year old man. It didn´t appear to be much from the outside, but the doors open to a beautiful sanctuary, rose garden / courtyard (where everyone washed and dried their clothes) and the back house was equipped with bathrooms and 36 beds. We all shared a meal together and we laughed so hard I cried. I love meeting other pilgrims and finding out their stories...how they found out about El Camino and where they plan to walk. We all begin our days at different times, pass eachother, wait for eachother, salud eachother from afar, knowing that each have unique rythms and speeds. We arrive separately to the pilgrim hostels, but dream together at night, and rest our tired feet, in preparation for the challenge of the next day. It is a lovely, simple life.

Weird tan lines...blisters and lots of BULL!...by NR

I speak for the both of us when I say that we are enjoying your affection through your posts. It is like a hug from home! Well, I cannot begin to describe all that has happened. What I can say is that we feel so fortunate to be living this experience. There are stones along the way that fellow pilgrims have set in place near the signs pointing us to the next village. They are a symbol of what we are leaving behind, negative energy or just anything weighing on one´s thoughts. E and I have both been able to lay several burdens down and become a part of centuries of pilgrims that use this time to reflect. It seems that when we are the most worn out and wanting to quit, a gust of wind hits our face or a butterfly (grams) crosses our path. We both have handled the trip differenty, which evens us out quite nicely. Em leads and helps her stuboorn friend to know when to break. I set a steady pace. Emily has used her amazing spanish skills to mingle at every stop, while I have been somewhat to myself, just thinking. Being the Americans that we are, we have the heaviest pack of our fellow friends. Today, we mailed 10kg to pick up at the end of our journey so we feel like new people with old blisters and weird tan lines. We have past Pampolona (and YES we ran, I mean saw the running of the bulls, which em will write about)! I feel like if I go on much further I will become even more random in my writing. In short, we are feeling good and going strong!

After a bit of experience...by NR

Trying to write creatively at this moment presents a great challenge for me, as I am tired beyond measure. We have had the best stories created by this adventure. The first day of walking, we started out strong and excited. When we got past perhaps the most difficult climb, I began to get very sick. Throwing up several times and having no strength to continue, Em decided that we needed to change plans. (I was sick enough that I put up little arguement!) Christina was sitting at the bar of the one water stop we had for the day. She happened to be driving to our next stop and volunteered to take me for 15 euros. Being Barbara´s daughter, I had attracted a women pilgrim that was crying and wanted to travel with me down the mountain. Don´t worry, I sent Emily with our new friend, Dianna, who promised to not leave her side. We were both upset but decided that God had a story planned for this day, and boy did sHe! As I traveled down the mountain by bus, we had to stop every few miles to let me vomit (excuse my forwardness.) The¨lost soul¨ that joined me continued to cry and say how she no longer wanted to live. I asked Christina to drop me off at the bus station, but she would not leave me alone with the depressed woman. So she waited as I prayed with this 40 year old woman who needed agape type love and grace, and sent her on a bus to her home on the promise that she would seek help. After I took care of her, Christina gracefully took care of me. She brought me to the doctor, where I got a shot for infection (altitude sickness?) and the doctor sent me on my way. Then we went to her house where I took a nap and she made me hot tea--a true saint! After we left her home, she drove me to the next town where I would meet Em. Both the doctor and Christina asked me to pay NOTHING. I´ve never been so glad to hug Emily´s neck as she came over the last hill to meet me in Roncevalles. It was wonderful because as Pilgrims would come in they would say, ¨please, let me buy you a Sprite to stay well¨ and gave me updates of when they had last seen Emily and Dianna. Emily had a wonderful adventure too as she overcame a huge peak of the walk and was able to do some meditation for the road. The community we have, whether it is through the blisters and stench we share, or the smiles we exchange, is incredible. But what has been most interesting to me is that we travel with many who are so lost, looking for purpose at 40 and 50 and 60. I am so thankful to have a purpose, a foundation to grow from now. I found myself at first apologizing for my faith or confidence in my future. Not lasting long, I now just love and give what kindness I can (even though I too am learning A LOT). So physically, we are doing good. We hurt by the end of the day but love the exhilaration of the accomplishment. And by the way, Em and I have decided that we are tough. Together, we are really a good team. Jerry (Em´s dad) has certainly rubbbed off on his daughter, as she plans EVERYTHING, which has kept us well-prepared. And I have suprised myself by being the relaxed one, which suits me better and I hope that I can continue the trend upon my return. We have fallen (ok, so just Emily has fallen-ha!) but getting back up or getting over a peak that looked impossible is a fantastic reward. I have learned so much about where I am headed and we have merely begun the journey. God is teaching me to not fear trusting in something bigger than what I can control or conceive, to finish well and worship in even small opportunities. Emily is learning to love herself more--to see herself as beautiful, like we all do. We love you all. We are doing well--no, GREAT! We will continue to depend on your prayers for safety and mental endurance. Just as a few last details, it is raining and a bit cold. The hostels are clean and we love the fellowship. Our clothes will not fit for much longer as we feel like we are melting away...please look forward to our nude pictures on the beach in Porto (just kidding dad!!). Ok, time for sleep...it´s 8pm.

A few thoughts for the road...aka therapy for NR

I am overwhelmed by the mountain we sit beneath, both in great anticipation and fear. For those of you who know me (Nikki) well, you know that I am not in control and struggling with utter dependence. Perhaps it is the blister on my fourth toe or the fact that my belonglings will be carried on my back for the next month. Whatever the case, I am thankful to be in a place of humility, wonder and well, weakness. My faith in a God that thinks far more creatively than I could ever dream is growing literally with each step. I guess I just needed to write because I want this blog to be an experience felt beneath the grandeur of our attempt to walk 500 miles. I would like it to connect us in a way that helps us all to realize the beauty in simplicity, adventure and great faith. Em and I were talking on the lawn of a beautiful cathedral in Toulouse today; we talked about what we hope to accomplish in these next strides. We are very similiar in our desires to grow spiritually, shrink physically and ultimately love who we are as creation. She decided that she will be the photographer for the blog and leave the writing to me--my apologies ahead of time! Anyway, I am certain that the blogs to follow will be short but I want them to be honest. Pray for our hike tomorrow. It will be hot, early and the highest elevation on our trip. The two of us are not known for our grace when walking, so up and downhill should produce quite the story...

A journey already...by NR

Well, we made it to Paris and now Toulouse, France. We are safe, jet-lagged and having fun. Emily's friends from France have been welcoming and will certainly become new Facebook friends of mine. Preparing to leave tomorrow to begin our walk is emotional to think about. Em and I look at each other a lot to confirm that each believes that we can succeed in this endeavor. Personally, I feel a huge sense of wonder about what lies ahead...the nikki that is before me, if you will. Em and I thank you for posting comments. That will certainly become our source for comfort while away. We both agree that we couldn't have asked for better people in our lives. One of us will write again soon...perhaps after we reach Pampolona for the Running of the Bulls! Chao!